Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Don Usie's Crab Etouffee and Corn Maque Choux

Diane and Mavis eating boiled blue crabs


Don Usie's Crab Etouffee
Don making Corn Maque Choux


Cutting the corn twice
Don scraping milk from corn cob


Every time that Don Usie invites us to supper Diane and I wish we could drop everything and head over to Don's house. Don lives in Lafayette and is among my favorite people to cook and sit down and eat with.

Don is originally from Breaux Bridge, LA and learned to cook from his parents who taught him traditional French Acadian cooking at it's best. Don does not do anything easy and never would think of taking a short cut, from peeling his own crabs for crab meat to cleaning the crab's shells with a tooth brush before adding them to his sauce.

A few week ago Don and his wife Mavis were in Grand Isle, LA spending the week with my brother Jeff and his wife Charlene. Before Don arrives in Grand Isle he has already visited his favorite farmers, fishermen and butchers gathering all his favorite ingredients needed for the next few days.

Knowing Don was headed to the Island I notified my favorite crabbers to hand pick the best crabs from their catch that day. I had them pick 6 dozen of the largest and heaviest freshwater male crabs from the catch. The day I called they caught about 5,000 pounds of crabs. I knew that I could impress Don with the best crabs culled from that catch. When Don arrived my brother Jeff, Don and I headed up the bayou to pick up our crabs and yes I think Don was impressed with what our fisherman Jeffrey had chosen for us. Don kept saying I can't believe these crabs, man look at these crabs!

The trip up the bayou yielded a couple of other good things from soft shell crabs to jumbo 9 - 12 count white shrimp but that is a story for another time.

Don starts cooking not long after he wakes up in Grand Isle. A big breakfast first then he starts the evening meal. Today it was going to be his famous crab etouffee and corn maque choux. He started with four chopped onions and a couple of diced green bell peppers, two large home grown tomatoes and a can of rotel (tomatoes with green chilies) and about a cup of vegetable oil in a heavy bottomed pot. He simmers and stirs this all day making a red paste after simmering for eight hours. The sauce is ready to add the raw crabs which he has cleaned with his crab tooth brush after he had chilled them with ice so that they became dormant. He pulled the top shell off of the crab, trimmed the swimmer legs with scissors and broke off the claws. Don boiled the claws and picked the meat so that he could add the meat to the etouffee right before it is ready to serve.

It's time to add the whole cleaned raw crabs to the sauce, he stirs in the crabs very good, covers the pot and cooks on medium fire for about an hour stirring again three more times . He checks for salt and pepper and adds a little more pepper and chops a fresh cayenne pepper over the sauce then adds the claw meat and covers for about 20 more minutes. He had a large pot of Maque Choux that he had cooked on the side. Don called out it's time to start the rice as he heated garlic butter to spread between a loaf of crusty French bread.

As soon as the rice was ready the smell of the garlic bread spread throughout the camp I knew it was almost time to eat. It had been 10 hours from the time Don started preparing supper that morning until the time we ate. As we sat down to this glorious meal Don and Jeff were trying to decide what they were going to cook tomorrow for lunch.


Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Caesar's Salad with Carla Cardini

Original Caesar's Salad

Carla Cardini demonstrating her grandfather's Caesar Salad


Whole Romain lettuce hearts and leaves with coddled eggs

Diane making Caesar's Salad for two!


Ready to Serve

Caesar Salad (SEE-zer) - The salad consists of greens (classically romaine lettuce) with a garlic vinaigrette dressing. In the 1930s, Caesar Salad was voted by the master chefs of the International Society of Epicures in Paris as the "greatest recipe to originate from the Americas in fifty years." Linda Stradley From What's Cooking America




Monday night we were invited to the old Judge Roy Hofheinz home, the builder of the Astrodome and Astroworld, and the current location of Catering by Culinaire by the Houston Chow Hounds to attend a demonstration by Carla Cardini. Carla is the granddaughter or Alex Cardini, the creator of the Caesar Salad in Tijuana, Mexico in 1927.

There are many accounts of how and who invented the salad, but it is believed that Alex first added anchovies and first served it to a group of aviators visiting Tijuana from Rockwell field in San Diego.
Alex, an ace pilot himself in the Italian Air Force during World War I, made the salad intending whole lettuce leaves to be eaten with your hands.

Carla started off with whole romaine lettuce leaves and hearts, enough for two people, and drizzled a little vegetable oil enabling the salt and pepper to stick to the leaves. She then broke two coddled eggs over the leaves and squeezed two key limes or one whole regular lime over each egg yolk and about four or five shakes of a bottle of Worcestershire sauce over the leaves.

The croutons were French bread rounds, toasted, rubbed with anchovy paste on both sides then each side dipped in vegetable oil that had minced garlic marinating in it.

At that time the croutons were added to the salad along with Parmigiana Reggiano and a little more of the oil and garlic. The leaves were gently rolled with salad tongs until thoroughly coated making sure croutons were not broken. Taste for seasoning and more cheese can be added if dressing is too wet.

Everyone stood around their respective salad bowls and ate their salads with their fingers which of course made it even taste better.

This is as close to the recipe as I can remember Carla making. Out of the 10 or 12 salads made last night, every one had a slightly different taste. Some liked more cheese, salt, pepper,
Worcestershire or garlic, but all in all every salad was very good.

This is a very simple and delicious dressing to make. A Caesar Salad should never be made ahead of time.

We like to have informal meals with our friends and this salad would be perfect to serve at these dinners. Give each couple their own salad bowl and
ingredients. Let everyone make their own salad and see for yourself that each one will be slightly different. Salad can be eaten directly out of the bowl or leaves arranged in a circle around a plate.





Monday, June 8, 2009

Texas Peaches from Bayou City Farmer's Market

Strawberry Patch's Texas Peaches


A couple of months ago while at the Bayou City Farmer's Market I noticed a line of people waiting for peaches from the Strawberry Patch . The line was long and seemed to last for several hours. All the times that I have gone to the farmer's market, I had never seen a line like this. The line lasted until all of the peaches were gone and probably would have lasted until the
market closed if they had not run out.

We purchased a flat of peaches knowing that they must be extraordinary and indeed they were. They were the best peaches that I have had this year, juicy and very sweet. When I bit into my first peach the juice ran down my cheeks and I could hardly stop eating them.

Diane and I both enjoyed this flat of peaches eating all of them over the next week and not getting a chance to freeze any, which was our original intention.

Next year when you see peaches from the Strawberry Patch don't pass them up.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Soft Shell Crab Sandwich

Crisp Fried Soft Shell Sandwich


Soft Shell Crab w/over ripe tomato.


One of my favorites -- Soft Shell Crab Sandwich

April is the beginning of soft shell crab season on the Gulf Coast and boy did I start off with a bang. Last week I stopped by one of my soft shell suppliers and picked up a dozen large crabs classified as whalers. I love making fried soft shell crab sandwiches with my first crabs of the season. I picked up a couple of ripe hot house tomatoes and a loaf of soft sliced bread and headed to my office to fix lunch. Soft shell crab sandwiches are a seasonal treat and everyone should eat at least one. I like a crispy fried crab with a little mayonnaise, ketchup, hot sauce topped with an over ripe tomato and served on white or wheat sliced bread. Try one with a fresh soft shell crab and you will be a fan for life.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Strawberry Shortcake

Strawberry Shortcake


Birthday Cake

Every year for my birthday, Diane asks what kind of cake I want and every year I say the same thing, strawberry shortcake. Fresh strawberries are always in season in April and adding whipped cream and shortcake together makes my favorite cake.

Diane's shortcake, a giant slightly sweet biscuit holds up well to the juicy strawberries and whipped cream that she generously adds to it. A very simple cake but one that I will take over any other.

We celebrated three birthdays with this cake, Jamie my stepdaughter's, Jay my brother-in-law's and mine, that's what the three candles were for.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Little Eagle's Boiled Crawfish

Little Eagle's Boiling Room


Washing Crawfish


Boiling Pots


Dining Room


Boiled Crawfish


Platter of Crawfish

Kurt LeBoeuf's Little Eagle in Golden Meadow, LA is a favorite stop during crawfish season. I have been stopping at the Little Eagle for more than 40 years and until about 1o years ago I could fill up with gas, get a drink and eat boiled crawfish. Kurt and his wife Jackie decided to stop selling gas and open only for live and boiled crawfish. During the off season Kurt is a fishing guide and manages a fishing camp with his wife Jackie in the marsh south of Golden Meadow. Both Kurt and Jackie are great cooks and have terrific crawfish. Whenever I'm working in the area I always look forward to visiting, having a few platters of crawfish and catching up with the locals.

The Little Eagle is a converted service station with two long communal tables and hundreds of old fishing and maritime relics collected by Kurt's father and mother over the last 60 years. This is the type of place that I grew up eating boiled seafood and find vanishing all over South Louisiana.

Every crawfish season when headed down the bayou, I go through Golden Meadow , I keep my fingers crossed and hope that Kurt and Jackie have opened this little jewel one more year. I know that some day because of rising property cost, increased regulations and "progress", the Little Eagle will be a replaced with a shopping center or maybe a nail salon and sushi bar.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Crawfish Bisque

Diane and Carolyn in kitchen



Audrey "Toots" peeling crawfish and saving the fat.
Jamie and Will stuffing heads

Carolyn and Diane stuffing heads


Stuffing heads


Tray of stuffed crawfish heads


Butter Roux


Crawfish Bisque w/ stuffed heads

Making and eating crawfish bisque, when I was growing up, has always been a special event for our family. Because of the work involved in preparing and stuffing the heads, eating crawfish bisque was reserved for restaurants. When I was growing up there were plenty of restaurants that served great crawfish bisque. Today due to the inability to buy crawfish fat and heads some restaurants have taken this traditional dish off of the menu or have eliminated the stuffed heads.

During Holy Week, the peek of the crawfish season, I decided that I would get the family together and cook crawfish. My grandson Will, on his way to visit with us in Grand Isle for the week and knowing that we were cooking crawfish, asked his mother a question that really made me feel bad. He asked Jamie, "Mom what is crawfish bisque?" When Jamie told me that I was ashamed I had not cooked this traditional crawfish favorite for him.

I knew this week would be the perfect time to make crawfish bisque. Diane's mother, Audrey and sister, Carolyn were going to be here. With the children and grandchildren also here it would be a perfect time to make an old fashioned crawfish bisque and everyone could help.

We started early Friday morning, first boiling and peeling the crawfish. We cleaned heads and saved the fat buried deep in the head. Without that fat our bisque would not have tasted like we all remembered it. We spent all day, making roux, chopping vegetables, cooking the bisque, preparing stuffing and cleaning and stuffing the crawfish heads. We were six people working on this family meal. This was a real labor of love, after all we were cooking for the family and we would be serving at least 14 of them that night.

After supper was served and everyone said that this was the best crawfish bisque they had ever eaten (our last bisque is always the best) we realized why Will had never eaten bisque. To make great crawfish bisque takes much labor and time but all of us vowed to at least cook one large bisque a year and to make it a family event.

Crawfish Peeling Plant

Hand Peeled Crawfish


Crawfish Peeler

Pile of Crawfish on Peeling Table


Peeled Crawfish Meat
Premium Hand Picked Crawfish Meat

Last week while working in Louisiana I had a chance to visit an old friend's crawfish peeling plant which is now being run by his daughter Rose and nephew Greg.

Lionel Hayes was the first person to start peeling crawfish commercially. He told me that while selling live crawfish for Joe Amy in Henderson, Louisiana he had 7 sacks of crawfish left over one afternoon. He dropped a few sacks off at each of his sister's homes to peel so that he wouldn't loose the crawfish. After they cooked and peeled the crawfish he asked one of his large customers, which was Don's Seafood & Steakhouse restaurant in Lafayette if they were interested in buying the crawfish tails. Don, Ashby and Willie Landry said that they would and thus an industry was born. During the early 50's restaurants that served crawfish etouffee, bisque and stew had to peel them which required extra labor during crawfish season.

Joe Amy owned a grocery store in Henderson and decided to open a peeling plant and have Lionel run it for him. Demand for peeled crawfish began to grow as more restaurants and supermarkets needed the meat

Lionel later opened his own plant and during the early 70's I began buying from him for my own first restaurant. We opened more restaurants and a wholesale company and eventually bought most of his production. He had the best peeled crawfish in those days and his reputation for top quality remains today.

Lionel died last year, but his daughter and nephew have kept his high standards and still produce one of the best peeled crawfish in Louisiana.

I knew Lionel for over 40 years and had the opportunity to spend many hours with him during crawfish season. When I hear the word crawfish I can't help thinking of Lionel Hayes, he was a pioneer and great friend I truly miss.